What is Moccasin Construction

Moctoe also known as True-Moc construction technique is a special way of making shoes in which the shoe upper is like an envelope. The word Moctoe is derived from the words True & Moccasin which refers to this envelope construction approach.


In normal shoes the shoe upper finishes towards the edges, the shoe upper is pasted to the insole which is then pasted to the sole.

But in moctoe construction, upper leather continues below the feet and this upper is pasted to the sole.


Why is this done?

Since leather has the ability to get stretched – this envelope shape allows the upper part to open up when the feet movement needs this expansion. As we take each step – the motion starts from heel touching the surface and then the feet flatten which is when the muscles expand.

This construction allows for a snug fit shoe [a shoe which fits like a pair of socks] – this kind of fit lowers the friction – There is no extra space in the shoe which also adds to the comfort as it is continuously expanding and contracting in sync with the muscles of feet.

The downside of this construction is that it consumes more leather and hence the shoe becomes more expensive.

It is typically used in driving shoe and boat shoes but at times it’s also used in boots and dance shoes.


History of this technique

This construction goes back to moccasins used by Red Indians, they used to take a thick leather and do this envelope construction and use it as a shoe.


TZARO & TRUEMOC construction

TZARO Driving shoes, Boat Shoes and even in a boots series called Bismark are made in Moctoe construction.

  • Driving shoes, the sole runs through the leather – the sole is a twin layered rubber sole.
  • In Boat shoes the upper is actually stitched to the sole and is not pasted – if one will flip the shoe upside down – the stitch line will be visible.
  • Bismark series is a truemoc construction where the upper has been pasted to the sole. One can feel the extra delight of moctoe construction in these boots.
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